This week's horological highlights offer a fascinating journey through the world of vintage timepieces, featuring a diverse collection ranging from chronographs with intriguing historical connections to rare and aesthetically unique designs. The selection underscores the enduring appeal of mechanical artistry and the meticulous craftsmanship that defines these wearable relics of time.
Among the standout pieces is the Wittnauer 235T, a model once considered by NASA for its space program. This particular example, featuring a transitional dial with both "Wittnauer" and "Genève" inscriptions, represents a less common configuration in the model's lineage. Despite minor imperfections on the dial, its well-preserved case, distinct bevels, original crown, and characteristic faded yellow tritium lume make it a highly desirable piece for collectors. The 36mm case retains its sharp lines, and the overall aesthetic—white dial with three-color printing, puffy tritium, and blued hands—contributes to its exceptional presence. In a market where vintage chronographs from the 1960s have seen fluctuating values, the 235T, powered by a Valjoux 72 movement, currently offers excellent value, often available for under $3,000.
Another intriguing inclusion is the Cleto Munari "Sotsy," a watch whose design philosophy stands in stark contrast to its designer's previous, more flamboyant work. Created by Ettore Sottsass, known for his bold and colorful Olivetti Valentine typewriter, the "Sotsy" is a study in refined minimalism. Encased in opulent 18k gold, its subdued aesthetic, plain yet captivating dial, understated hands, and architectural case speak volumes through their quiet elegance. The extraordinary attention to detail, particularly evident in the seamlessly integrated buckle, highlights Sottsass's commitment to every aspect of the design. This rare full-set example is a testament to the power of subtle design and is currently offered for $28,000.
The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms "No Rad" Technisub also commands attention, not just for its historical significance as a seminal dive watch but for its remarkable condition. This particular model, co-signed by Technisub, an outfitter that supplied watches to divers, is a testament to the robust engineering of these early tool watches. Despite being over 60 years old, its pristine dial and well-maintained case defy its age, suggesting either careful preservation or an inherent resilience in its construction. This watch serves as a powerful reminder of how well-crafted objects can withstand the test of time, emerging decades later as enduring proof of their superior design. Its auction estimate ranges from €17,000 to €20,000.
Lastly, the Eberhard Contograf, a model often overlooked, is presented as a hidden gem. Housed in a 38mm stainless steel case crafted by Huguenin Frères, it features a rotating 12-hour external bezel, allowing for a rudimentary GMT function. Powering this watch is the in-house Eberhard cal 310/82, a column-wheel chronograph movement with a date complication and an independent date corrector at 9 o'clock—a testament to its advanced engineering for its time. This particular non-lume model, with its brushed-steel dial and remarkably preserved case, reinforces the Contograf's status as a highly collectible piece, with an asking price of $13,850 reflecting its market value. The column concludes with a cautionary tale about a Tiffany & Co jump hour watch, highlighting the importance of thorough authentication in vintage collecting.